Parts of the Moelwynion (the Moelwyns) feel really remote, with the remains of old slate quarries lending an air of melancholy.

At other points, the damage done by trail bikers is a grim reminder that the hills are used by many people, not all of whom value peace, quiet and the natural environment.

Moelwyn Mawr is the highest point, but it’s Cnicht that tends to get the most attention. Get off the path from Croesor to the summit and a quiet walk becomes even quieter (unless the trail bikers are out).

Seen from the south west, Cnicht resembles a knight’s helmet, and so was given the old English name for a Knight (making it a Welsh mountain without a Welsh name). It’s also known as the Welsh Matterhorn, named again for its shape when seen from certain angles, rather than because it’s hard to climb.